Ham pithiviers

Fast method (abandoned): blend all purpose flour, cake flour and salt, then break in the butter so it stays in lumps the size of large lima beans.

Blend in one cup of uber-chilled water, mixing just enough that the dough masses together and the butter stays the same size.

With the fingertips, push, pat and roll into a rectangle about 18 inches long, fold in a business letter shape, and repeat four turns; chill 40 minutes or longer.

Cut the boiled ham into irregular pieces and mince the shallot.

Melt two tablespoons of butter over medium heat, add the ham and two tablespoons of minced shallot and heat through.

Beat two egg yolks with the heavy cream.

Stir the cream mixture into the ham with a couple of drops of Worcestershire, a couple of drops of hot pepper sauce and freshly ground black pepper.

Return to low heat and fold the ham into the sauce until it thickens; it must not boil. About 10 minutes.

Cut a vent an eighth of an inch wide in the centre to let steam escape.

Using a bowl as a guide, cut two inch wide scallops all round the circumference and mark upright lines with the back of a knife.

Paint the surface with an egg wash of one egg and a teaspoon of water, then cut decorative lines a sixteenth of an inch deep.

Classic method (the one that worked): in an ice-cold bowl blend the two flours, remove about half a cup and reserve.

Cut three ounces of chilled butter into the flour as for pie dough.

Mix two teaspoons of salt into one and one eighth cup of ice water and blend into the flour and butter to a rough cushion; it should be pliable, not damp or sticky.

Flour lightly, wrap in parchment and chill about 40 minutes to firm the dough and relax the gluten.

Beat three sticks of chilled butter with the rolling pin, smear with the heel of the hand, work in the reserved flour and form a five inch square; the butter must be smooth and supple yet still cold.

Roll the dough into a circle 12 to 13 inches in diameter, place the butter in the centre and fold the edges over without stretching the dough; seal.

Roll the package into a rectangle 16 by 8 inches and give it a letter fold; repeat for two turns, mark with two depressions, wrap and chill about an hour.

Roll and fold two more turns, chill another hour, then two more for six turns in total; chill two hours.

Make the filling again: cream and egg yolks, Worcestershire, Tabasco, black pepper, butter, ham and minced shallot, folded over low heat until thickened but not boiled.

Roll the dough out on parchment paper to 18 by 9 inches, split it in half and roll each into a 12 inch square about a quarter inch thick; the top piece slightly thicker.

Cut a nine inch circle from each and chill.

Pat the bottom disc out a little larger, then prick it through at half inch intervals so it does not rise.

Layer Parmesan and ham filling in the centre, then more cheese and the rest of the filling, leaving about two inches of border.

Paint the border with cold water and centre the top layer on it, pressing the two pieces together all round with the balls of the first three fingers.

Bake at 450F on the lower middle rack for 20 minutes, then turn down to 400F for another 20 to 30 minutes.

Second stage of the bake: 400F for 20 to 30 minutes.