Hawaiian macaroni salad

Mix the dressing: mayonnaise, a little apple cider vinegar, a touch of white sugar, salt, freshly ground black pepper and a few shakes of cayenne.

Finely dice a little red onion; in a strainer set in a bowl of cold water, soak about 20 minutes to mellow its harshness. Drain and stir it into the dressing straight away, before it oxidises and gets stronger.

Peel the carrots, break in half and grate flat against the grater with a very light touch to get small shreds (more surface, flavour, sweetness and colour); stop near the end. Mix into the dressing and set aside.

Cook the elbow macaroni in well-salted water at a rolling boil, stirring early and often so it does not stick, until fully done: five minutes, per the package.

Drain, rinse with cold water to stop the cooking and remove surface starch, drain about 20 seconds, and stir into the dressing with a spatula. It will look too soupy; that is correct.

Scrape down the bowl, cover with plastic and refrigerate at least three hours, ideally overnight.

Mix; add a dollop more mayo and a big splash of cold water to make it creamy and moist again, adjusting with more mayo or a couple tablespoons of water. Taste for salt.

Serve, garnished with a little grated carrot, finely minced red onion and snipped chives.