Hojaldra with quince paste and three cheeses, in rough puff pastry

Measure the flour and salt; have the very cold water ready.

Pulse a small amount of the butter into the flour in a food processor several times until well incorporated.

Add the rest of the butter and pulse only about three one-second pulses.

Drizzle in half the water and pulse once; drizzle in the rest and pulse a couple of times. It will not yet be a dough.

Turn out onto the work surface, work in the loose flour and press it out.

Roll into a rectangle about 20 inches long and 10 inches wide, flouring the top.

Fold one third over the middle and the bottom third up, press out, then roll it up from the side like a jelly roll and press it out.

Wrap in plastic and refrigerate about three hours to firm up.

Pulse cream cheese, goat cheese, ricotta, orange zest and black pepper in the food processor until thoroughly combined. Slice the quince paste thinly.

Cut the chilled dough in half and roll each half to about 10 by 13 inches; lay one on a parchment-lined cookie sheet.

Spread the filling over it, leaving about an inch uncovered all round, and top with the quince paste.

Beat the egg; brush it around the edges, drape over the second sheet, press the seams and seal the edges with a fork.

Brush lightly with egg wash and cut long slits across the top to let steam out.

Sprinkle with sugar mixed with a little salt.

Bake at 400 degrees about 10 minutes.

Lower to 350 degrees and bake until crispy through, about 40 minutes more.