Homemade ice cream drumsticks

Measure the store-bought drumstick: cone diameter four and a half centimetres, cone length 11, ice cream bulb four centimetres high and six across.

Blend the egg whites, white sugar, Demerara sugar, cooled melted butter, vanilla extract, cornstarch, kosher salt, baking soda and flour with a hand blender in a tall narrow container until thoroughly mixed.

Heat the waffle cone iron and rub it very lightly with neutral oil on a paper towel.

Pipe the batter onto the iron and press hard to get it thin; cook until nice and blonde and still flexible, then roll it around the cone form while hot and hold the seam until it sets.

Cut a paper stencil of the flattened cone shape, wider than the finished size to allow for shrinkage in the iron, and cut each cooked round to that shape with a wheel cutter before rolling.

Push a tiny piece of soft cooked batter into the opening at the point of each cone to plug it against liquid chocolate.

Dry the cones in a 200 degree oven about 20 minutes with air circulation all around, so they are crisp all through.

Melt the bittersweet chocolate over a double boiler, starting on higher heat and turning it down; take it off at about 80% melted and let residual heat finish it. No tempering, because the finished cones are frozen.

Paint a thin even coat of melted chocolate inside each cone with a soft brush, dabbing extra down into the point, and stand the cones point down in punched cartons.

Combine the egg yolks, sugar, malted milk powder, salt and vanilla paste directly in a saucepan and whisk until pale, thick and voluminous enough to form a ribbon.

Whisk in the dairy, scraping the sides so nothing is left unincorporated to overcook.

Cook on the stove, whisking, until it reaches 180F, which is when the eggs are cooked.

Plunge the pan into an ice bath and stir until the creme anglaise is cold.

Spin in an ice cream maker, filling it only halfway because air is incorporated and the volume expands; about 15 to 20 minutes.

Freeze the empty chocolate-lined cones first, so the soft ice cream sets fast and does not hydrate the cone.

Pipe the soft ice cream into the cones, working cold and fast, and smooth the tops with an offset spatula.

Chop the dry-roasted salted peanuts, sift out the dust and break the biggest pieces in half by hand for uniform pieces.

Portion about two thirds of a batch of ice cream into a cold metal loaf pan, smooth it, and freeze; this is what the tops are scooped from.

Scoop a loaded dome from the loaf pan onto each filled cone and smooth it flush with the rim, then freeze.

Melt the leftover chocolate with a couple of tablespoons of coconut oil on the stove to make a magic shell, and pour it into a measuring cup deep enough to dip in, sat in hot water to keep it fluid.

Dip each frozen cone and roll it on its side; press indentations into the chopped peanuts and dip the coated top in.

Harden in the freezer about 15 minutes, or half an hour, before serving.