Homemade ricotta cheese

Set a mesh strainer over a pot and line it with a few layers of cheesecloth (optional with a very fine strainer).

Put four cups of whole milk in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with about 2 tbsp heavy cream per cup of milk and some salt.

Heat over medium-high, stirring occasionally in a figure eight, to exactly 195F, just before a simmer: steam, tiny bubbles round the edge, a little skin.

Turn off the heat immediately, pour in the white vinegar and stir in a figure eight for a count of four.

Let it sit untouched for exactly six minutes.

Carefully ladle into the strainer, pouring in the rest at the end.

Drain 20 to 45 minutes: 20 for softer and creamier, 45 for drier and firmer; 30 to 35 is the sweet spot.

Lift out in the cheesecloth into a bowl, cover with the cloth, cool to room temperature, then cover in plastic and chill thoroughly.

Unwrap and invert onto a plate to show the cheesecloth imprint; season with a little more salt to serve.

variation: serve drizzled with honey and fruity extra virgin olive oil, a shake of cayenne and a sprinkling of sea salt.

variation: serve with sweet tomatoes, sliced basil, black pepper, extra virgin olive oil and a little salt.