Hot and numbing stir-fried new potatoes

Put 2 lb new potatoes in cold water salted to about 4% (as salty as the sea), bring to a boil and boil about 10 minutes until a knife pokes through without resistance but they do not fall apart.

Drain and spread on a sheet tray to steam dry, leaving a salty coating.

Toast 2 tsp Sichuan peppercorn husks, 1 tsp cumin, a star anise pod, 1 tsp fennel seeds and 1 tsp white peppercorns until aromatic; transfer to a mortar and pestle.

Stir-fry another teaspoon of cumin with two small hot chilies about 30 seconds until aromatic and the seeds pop, without burning; set aside in a bowl.

Add the chilies, 1 tsp sugar, 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp chicken bouillon powder to the mortar and grind fine.

Add the reserved cumin and half-grind it for texture; stir in 2 tbsp roasted sesame seeds.

Heat about 3 tbsp oil in the wok until lightly smoking; smash a couple of garlic cloves.

Add the potatoes carefully by hand and stir-fry, tossing, until there are dark brown crisp spots on both sides.

Cut two scallions into rough half-inch pieces.

Push the potatoes aside, add a little fresh oil and cook the garlic and scallions until aromatic, not deeply browned.

Add the spice mix, about three quarters first, then all of it; toss and serve as a heavily seasoned snack.