Hot cross buns

Optionally soak the dry currants in warmed rum for a few hours; drain.

Mix warm milk at about 100F with a little flour and the yeast; leave about 15 minutes until a foamy raft of bubbles shows the yeast is good.

Add white sugar, the beaten egg, lemon and orange zest, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, salt and the melted butter, then most of the flour.

Knead 5 to 6 minutes, adding flour if needed, until a soft, supple, slightly elastic, shiny dough pulls away from the sides.

Press the dough flat on a floured surface, scatter the currants over, fold and turn and reshape into a ball.

Rise in a lightly oiled, covered bowl in a warm draft-free place two hours or until doubled.

Press down to deflate, work the currants in evenly, divide into 16 equal pieces and roll each into a ball.

Space on a Silpat-lined baking sheet and rise 15 minutes.

Whisk cold water and all-purpose flour into a paste thick enough to hold a shape but thin enough to pipe; pipe a cross on each bun.

Rise another 15 to 20 minutes, until close to doubled.

Bake in the centre of a 425F oven about 15 minutes.

Cook sugar and water over medium heat until it just starts to thicken, or to 225 degrees; reserve.

Cool the buns 5 minutes, move to a rack and brush the warm tops with the syrup.