Iced pumpkin cupcakes with marshmallow filling

Halve sugar pumpkins, scoop out the seeds and roast cut side down; puree, then dry the puree on a sheet tray in the oven 20 to 30 minutes to concentrate flavor and drive off moisture (the oven is later said to be 'still on 425 from the puree').

Butter and flour the muffin wells.

Combine the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, kosher salt, turmeric, five spice and cinnamon.

Whisk the room-temperature eggs with the white and brown sugar until smooth, pale and slightly increased in volume.

Stream in the oil (with the vanilla) while whisking so it emulsifies into a thick cold emulsion.

Bake at 300F rather than 350F so the cakes set at the sides and bake flat; the 350F test batch domed in 11 minutes, and the second 300F batch took about 20 to 25 minutes.

Cool a few minutes, loosen the sides with an offset spatula and turn out onto a wire rack.

For the filling, soften the gelatin; cook the water, sugar and corn syrup to 240F, then melt in the gelatin.

Whip the egg white with a pinch of salt and a little lemon juice; stream in the hot syrup and whip until light and fluffy, add vanilla paste, and beat until the bowl is cool. Transfer to a pastry bag.

Whisk in half the dry ingredients, the pumpkin puree, the milk, then the rest of the dry ingredients.

Scoop into the prepared pan without overfilling; level the tops by tapping or spinning the pan.

For the icing, heat a pinch of salt, vanilla extract, a splash of corn syrup and a splash of water to just below a simmer; whisk into confectioners sugar with sour cream, adding sugar until opaque, pourable and coating the back of a spoon. Cover.

Cut off the dome, scoop out the center third with a round measuring spoon and some crumb from the dome, fill with the marshmallow, and replace the lid.

Dip each cupcake top in the icing.

Stiffen some icing with turmeric, beet powder and more confectioners sugar, with a drop or two of water, until it holds its shape; pipe a squiggle across each row of cupcakes and let set.