Just corn soup

Set a ramekin upside down in a bowl, rest the cob on it and cut straight down; scrape each finished cob with the back of the knife at an angle for the corn milk.

Break the kernels up by hand and check nothing but corn is in the bowl; any missed silks stick to your hand or the bowl.

Put half the corn in a saucepan and half in a blender with fresh cold water; blend on high a minute or two until completely smooth and pour it back into the pan.

Bring to a simmer on medium-high with salt and a shake of cayenne, then back the heat down to medium-low and cook about 30 minutes. It will go from milky to watery, grainy and separated looking.

Drop the heat to the lowest setting, add two tablespoons of cold unsalted butter and pulse a stick blender on and off until the butter emulsifies in and it looks creamy again.

Taste and adjust with a little more salt and another pinch of cayenne, and serve in hot bowls or cups, garnished with nothing.

Optionally top with creme fraiche, crumbled bacon, green onions and a shake of cayenne.