Kanom jeen nam ngiew

Cut the strip of pork ribs between the bones to separate them.

Put the ribs in a big pot, cover with unsalted pork or chicken stock, season with fish sauce and a touch of sugar, and bring to a gentle simmer.

Cut the dried chilies small and grind to a powder in a coffee grinder; set aside.

In a measuring cup, blend lemongrass, galangal, cilantro roots, garlic, shallots, shrimp paste and fermented soybean paste with an immersion blender until fine, scraping once; add the chili powder and blend to mix. Pounding by hand also works.

Saute the curry paste in a little neutral oil a few minutes, then add the ground pork and cook until no longer clumpy.

After the ribs have simmered about 45 minutes, add the pork and curry paste mixture and simmer another 45 minutes, for a total of an hour and a half.

Add the cubed blood tofu (already cooked; it only needs heating).

Add the halved tomatoes and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until soft but still intact.

Turn off the heat; taste and adjust the seasoning so it is stronger than seems necessary, since the noodles dilute it -- more fish sauce, soybean paste or salt.

Soak the rice vermicelli in water about an hour until pliable, then boil; from dry they take 7 to 10 minutes. Cook until tender with a little chew.

Lift the noodles into cold water to stop the cooking, then drain and divide among bowls (or coil into small bundles).

Pour the broth over the noodles and top with pickled mustard greens, cilantro, green onions, fried garlic, bean sprouts and a lime wedge.