Kao moo dang (Thai-style char siu pork on rice with gravy)

Cut the pork loin lengthwise into four or five pieces about two inches by one inch, leaving some fat on each.

Mix soy sauce, seasoning sauce, black soy sauce, honey, toasted sesame oil, white pepper, five spice powder, garlic and five to ten drops of red food colouring.

Pour over the pork in a snug dish or ziplock bag; marinate at least 24 hours, turning halfway.

Set the pork on a rack over a foil-lined pan, fat side up.

Roast at 400F / 200C about 30 minutes, until the inside reaches about 155F; it carries over to about 160F.

Bring unsalted pork stock and the leftover marinade to a boil.

Crush the toasted sesame seeds lightly in a mortar, five or six crushes, not ground; then mash the fermented soybean paste.

Skim the scum off the boiling stock.

Add the soybean paste, palm sugar and crushed sesame seeds; simmer a few minutes so the sesame infuses and the sugar dissolves; taste and add soy sauce if needed.

Dissolve cornstarch in a little water; turn up the heat and stir it in, stirring constantly, and bring to a full boil to thicken.

Rest the pork at least 10 minutes; serve it at room temperature.

Slice the pork; plate over rice with an egg and fanned cucumber slices; spoon over the gravy without overdoing it.

Drizzle a little of the vinegar-soy chili dipping sauce on top if wanted.