Karaage with a soy chili honey glaze

Cut the boneless chicken thighs into roughly 1 to 1.5 inch pieces; larger pieces overcook less and keep the batter-to-chicken ratio down. Put in a bowl.

Peel the ginger and grate it and the garlic directly over the chicken.

Add the soy sauce, mirin, sake, honey and a sprinkle of salt; toss until coated with no floating chunks of garlic or ginger.

Wrap and refrigerate to marinate at least an hour.

Heat neutral oil in a frying pan to 325F.

Toss a few pieces at a time in potato starch until coated, shake off the excess, and fry in batches without crowding just until light golden brown. Drain on a rack over a paper-towel-lined tray.

Raise the oil to 375F and fry the chicken a second time, briefly, until dark brown, to evaporate the surface moisture and set the crust.

Variation: stir the starch into the marinade to make a wet batter and fry; it forms a darker, smoother skin rather than a craggly crust.

In a wok, cook soy sauce, chili crisp, honey, red miso and sesame oil until bubbly.

Add the dry-coated fried chicken and toss until glazed and the sauce has reduced with no liquid left in the pan.

Pile on a plate with lemon wedges and some greens; squeeze lemon over to serve.