Keema matar

Grind cumin seeds, coriander seeds and black cardamom in a mortar and pestle (pre-ground also works).

Mix water into the ground meat so it cooks to a smooth, almost sauce-like consistency without chunks.

Peel the ginger with a paring knife or a spoon.

Melt butter and let it brown a little; add one star anise pod, a couple of bay leaves, half a cinnamon stick and some cloves to perfume the butter.

Add the onion with salt and cook until nice and dark brown.

Pound garlic and ginger with salt into a paste in the mortar.

Seed the serrano chili partly to reduce heat.

Add the garlic-ginger paste and chili and fry until the steaming hiss turns to a crackle and the oil breaks out of the solids.

Add the ground spices: turmeric, ground chili, cardamom, coriander and cumin; bloom in the fat.

Grate a tomato through the large holes of a box grater into the pan, leaving the skin behind.

Add the meat and water mixture, with a little more water if needed; cover and simmer until rich.

Rinse cilantro and dry it by slamming it down; serve with some of the whole spices on top.

Shake in a touch of store-bought garam masala at the end.

Add the peas; frozen peas can be thawed under hot water in a strainer or added frozen for a few minutes.