Khandvi

Blend and whisk three cups of thinned yogurt with one cup of fine chickpea flour, ginger-chilli paste, salt, turmeric and a sweet element until there is not a single lump. Taste for salt now.

Pass it through a strainer to be sure it is absolutely smooth. Without a smooth paste, spreading and rolling will not work.

Cook it on a low flame, stirring constantly for eight to ten minutes, until it thickens. Do not leave it even for a minute or it forms lumps that never come out. Keep the flame low: on high the chickpea flour does not cook through and the snack stays gritty.

Test by smearing a little on a cold plate and trying to roll it, then get straight back to the pan.

It is ready when it leaves the sides easily and strings from the lifted spoon. It has gone from the consistency of a milkshake to that of cooked oatmeal.

Turn off the gas but keep stirring -- there is residual cooking and it can still go lumpy.

Spread it thinly and very quickly on the back of a plate, or on a counter for larger quantities. Nothing is greased.

Let it cool a couple of minutes until it comes away like a sheet of leather, run a knife through it, and roll each strip with the fingers, rolling opposite to the direction it was spread.

Scatter chopped fresh cilantro and freshly grated coconut over the rolls.

Tempering: heat four to five teaspoons of oil, add half a teaspoon of mustard seeds and wait for them to splutter, then turn off the flame and add two teaspoons of sesame seeds, a quarter teaspoon of asafoetida and a sprig of curry leaf. Pour it over the top.