Khao soi (curry noodle soup with crispy egg noodles)

Heat a little oil in the pot and saute the curry paste a little.

Deglaze with about half the coconut milk and let it dry up until the coconut oil separates.

Add the chicken drumettes and toss to coat in the paste.

Add the rest of the coconut milk and the water, and about half the soy sauce, and the sugar.

Bring to a boil, then simmer and braise the chicken 20 to 30 minutes, until fork tender and the soup is rich with chicken stock.

Cut the thin egg noodles shorter (not too short) and deep-fry a little at a time in oil at 350, pressing down; flip when the bubbling subsides; done when there is no more bubbling.

Chop the pickled mustard greens.

Saute dried chili flakes in vegetable oil over medium-low heat until they darken and smell smoky; they burn easily.

At about 25 minutes, taste and adjust with the rest of the soy sauce; add water if a wide pot has evaporated too much.

Boil the flat egg noodles in a noodle strainer in rapidly boiling, unsalted water 1 to 2 minutes, shaking to loosen any bundle.

Dish up the noodles and broth, pile the crispy noodles high on top, and serve with lime, shallots, pickled mustard greens and fried chili alongside to add at the table.