Khao yam gai saep: double-fried popcorn chicken tossed in larb seasoning over rice

Trim big chunks of fat from the chicken thighs, cut off the thick piece on the back, and cut into 1 inch pieces.

Marinate in fish sauce, a little sugar and water for at least 20 minutes or up to one day.

Whisk the flour, cornstarch, paprika, cayenne, granulated garlic, white pepper and baking powder.

Pour the chicken with its liquid into the flour and mix well so the liquid clumps the flour into a craggy crust; spray in a little water for a thicker crust.

Lift the pieces out one by one into a single layer; let sit 15-20 minutes so the flour hydrates and stays on.

Toast the raw jasmine rice with the lime leaves over high heat, stirring constantly; remove the leaves when dry and crisp, and toast the rice until deeply browned.

Cool, then grind the rice and lime leaves to a powder with a little texture in a coffee grinder.

Mix the toasted rice powder with roasted chili flakes and, optionally, chicken bouillon powder for the dry seasoning.

Stir fish sauce, lime juice and a little sugar until the sugar dissolves for the liquid seasoning.

Cut the red onion into short juliennes: three sections across the half onion, then slice radially.

Heat an inch of oil to 350 Fahrenheit, 175 Celsius.

Fry in batches without crowding for two minutes, keeping the oil between 325 and 350; drain on paper.

Let the oil return to 350 before each batch.

Optionally refrigerate after the first fry and do the second fry (or an air fryer) on the day.

Cool at least five minutes, then fry again at 350 for one minute for extra crispness.

Toss only as much chicken as will be eaten: mix the dry and liquid seasoning first into a slurry-like dressing, add the red onions, then the chicken; mix until evenly coated, scraping the sides.

Add green onions, cilantro and mint and mix briefly.

Serve over jasmine rice with extra red onion and mint.