Kofta kebabs

Toast one slice of whole grain bread golden brown; cut into thin strips and then a small dice.

Pile the bread with diced onions, chopped parsley and minced garlic, and chop with a knife about two minutes until fine, like tabbouleh (a food processor crushes rather than slices).

Season two parts beef to one part lamb with kosher salt, black pepper, allspice, paprika, cardamom, nutmeg and cayenne.

Add the toast mixture and a couple tablespoons of cold water; mix and mash by hand until very well combined -- overmixing is wanted here for a firmer texture -- then stop.

Cover in plastic and chill at least an hour, or overnight for more flavour.

With wet hands roll one-fourth of the mixture into a smooth ball, pierce with a skewer and squeeze into an even log about six inches long and two inches wide.

Soak wooden skewers in water at least an hour so they do not catch fire. Wrap the kebabs and refrigerate until grilling.

Grill over very hot charcoal burned down until ashy, never over flames; turn with tongs, about three minutes per side for four sides, 12 to 15 minutes total, to medium well, moving pieces around hot and cool spots.

Pull when they spring back and are fairly firm to the touch (about 145 by temperature).

Serve over a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and onions dressed with salt and olive oil, with flatbread or pita and lemony tahini dressing, finished with parsley.