Korean fried chicken

Cut boneless skinless chicken thighs into four relatively similar pieces each, following the natural seams in the meat.

Add salt, freshly ground black pepper and very finely minced garlic to the chicken.

Grate half a small onion straight into the bowl on a cheese grater; it has to be grated, not diced, so the cell membranes tear and release their compounds.

Mix very thoroughly with a spatula so the garlic and onion are evenly distributed.

Wrap tightly and refrigerate four hours to overnight; overnight is preferred and four hours is enough. He used 10 hours.

For the batter whisk self-rising flour with cornstarch, a pinch of salt, a little sugar and freshly ground black pepper.

Stir in ice water until it resembles a pancake batter, adding about 80 percent first and topping up rather than dumping it all in.

Poke the batter with a finger to test: it should coat the finger thickly.

Preheat the fryer to 340F.

Transfer all the marinated chicken into the batter, keeping any onion or garlic stuck to it.

Lower the pieces into the oil one at a time, slowly, placing each in a fresh spot rather than on top of a piece that just went in.

Fry four minutes at 340F, in batches.

Remove to a cooling rack or crinkled foil and let the pieces cool; this first fry can be done ahead.

When ready to serve, crank the fryer to 375F and fry three to four minutes more, until golden brown and crispy.

Drain on the rack.

Plate and spoon over the Korean fried chicken sauce.

Garnish with a little green onion and toasted sesame seeds if you like.