Kouign-amann (mini, in muffin tins)

In the stand mixer bowl combine the flour, kosher salt, yeast, a quarter cup of sugar, the butter and the water.

Mix on the lowest speed to a shaggy ball, then medium-low, adding about a tablespoon of flour if sticky, eight to ten minutes or more, until smooth, supple and elastic, slightly tacky but not sticky.

Form into a ball, dust with flour, cover in the bowl and let rise at room temperature until nearly doubled, an hour to an hour and a half (or overnight).

For the butter block, gather the cold salted butter in parchment and beat with a rolling pin until pliable and about half an inch thick; shape with an offset spatula and fold the parchment into a 7 inch square packet, rolling to fill the corners. Refrigerate.

Punch the risen dough down into a square and freeze 10 minutes.

Slash an X in the dough and roll to a square a little bigger than the butter block; set the block in as a diamond, fold the four corners to the centre and pinch the seams closed.

Tap the packet with the rolling pin to lengthen it, then roll to about three times as long as wide, keeping the edges square; trim any butterless ends with a wheel cutter.

Letter fold into thirds, brushing off excess flour; turn like a book and roll and fold a second time.

Wrap in plastic, freeze 10 minutes, then refrigerate an hour.

Beat gently, roll out, and do turns three and four sprinkling sugar over each third as it is letter folded; clean sugar off the surface between turns. Freeze 10 minutes and refrigerate an hour.

Cut parchment strips a quarter to half inch wide and about five inches long; brush muffin cups with butter, lay a strip across each, butter it, and sprinkle a little sugar in each cup.

Roll the dough to about 18 by 12 inches, trim and cut into a six by four grid of 24 squares.

Coat each square in sugar, fold the four corners to the centre, press firmly and set in a muffin cup.

Proof covered at room temperature about an hour, or overnight in the fridge for flavour and colder butter.

Bake from cold at 350F with racks in the upper and lower thirds, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating top to bottom and turning 180 at about 20 minutes and pressing the puffed centres down, until golden brown and caramelized at the sides.

After a minute or two, lift out with the parchment tabs and cool upside down at least half an hour so the caramel shell hardens.