Kuey teow klok (Thai noodles tossed in sauce)

Heat neutral oil over medium-low with one piece of garlic as a temperature tester; when it bubbles add the rest of the garlic.

Stir or swirl frequently until golden and the bubbling subsides; do not let it brown, which is bitter. Strain, keeping the oil and the crispy garlic.

In the same pot bring a little water to a bubble, add the ground pork and stir until cooked; no seasoning.

Mix the soy sauce, golden mountain sauce, fish sauce, black soy sauce, sriracha and brown sugar with some liquid from the pork.

Warm the sauce until it steams, without boiling; take off the heat and keep covered. All this prep can be done days ahead and kept in the fridge.

Loosen the fresh egg noodles and cut them shorter so they toss and serve easily.

Coarsely grind the roasted peanuts in a mortar and pestle or a quick blitz in a food processor.

In a big pot of boiling water heat the meatballs, frozen if need be, until they expand; fish them out.

Blanch the bean sprouts about three seconds, just hot and still crunchy; put them in the big mixing bowl.

Return the water to a full boil and cook the noodles until done, three minutes for these.

Lift out the noodles, draining off as much water as possible so the sauce is not diluted.

While hot, toss the noodles with the garlic oil first to stop them sticking, mixing in the bean sprouts.

Add the pork (holding back excess liquid), peanuts, chili flakes, some green onions and the warm sauce, scraped out with a rubber spatula; toss right before serving.

Plate, top with the meatballs, cilantro and fried garlic, and squeeze lime over before eating; serve quickly as there is no broth.