Laab gai (chicken laab)

Dry-toast raw sticky rice in a pan with one kaffir lime leaf, stirring all the time so it toasts evenly, until deep brown rather than light golden; it will smoke a lot.

Grind the rice and crisp lime leaf in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder, keeping some grittiness rather than a complete powder.

Roast dried chilies with a lime leaf in the oven a few minutes, then grind into chili flakes.

Grind half chicken thigh with its fat and half chicken breast by chopping with a cleaver, flipping the pile and changing the knife angle.

In a large pan, add a couple tablespoons of water, then the chicken; season with a little fish sauce and cook, stirring constantly so it does not clump, until done. A large pan lets the water evaporate so it does not dilute the dressing.

Off the heat while still hot, add thinly sliced shallots, then fish sauce and lime juice; no sugar.

Add plenty of toasted rice powder, only if serving right away, as it absorbs the liquid and swells.

Add chili flakes, then the delicate herbs once it has cooled: green onions and sawtooth coriander or cilantro. Taste.

Serve with fresh vegetables and mint on the outside, a couple of dried chilies and pieces of crispy chicken skin on top, sticky rice and endive leaves for scooping.