Laab kai jiew (Thai omelette laab salad)

Beat the eggs with a little oyster sauce, keeping them slightly under-seasoned; check with a fork for gloopy bits of white.

Heat plenty of oil in a nonstick skillet; test with a drop of egg, which should puff up instantly; remove the test bit.

Pour in all the egg over heat that is not too high; early on, push the liquid egg underneath so it cooks faster.

When no longer runny, flip it (or halve it and turn with a spatula) and cook to golden brown; turn off the heat and let residual heat finish it.

Remove from the pan; dab off pooling oil from the surface rather than draining on paper towel, which dries the egg.

Cut or tear into bite-size pieces and let cool until lukewarm.

Combine mint, cilantro, green onions, sliced cucumber, shallots and thinly sliced lemongrass.

For the toasted rice powder, dry toast uncooked rice with a couple of kaffir lime leaves over medium-high heat until deep golden brown, then grind in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder. Add it to the salad.

Add roasted chili flakes to taste and mix; add the lukewarm egg.

Dress with lime juice and fish sauce; the egg absorbs the dressing, so do not overdo it.

Serve on its own or with hot jasmine rice.