Labra (Bengali mixed vegetable curry)

Toast cumin seeds, coriander seeds, black peppercorns, a dry bay leaf and a dry red chilli on low heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant; not too long or they turn bitter. Let cool completely.

Heat mustard oil on high until smoking to reduce its pungency, then lower the heat and let it cool a little.

Add a dried bay leaf, two dry red chilies and panch foron to oil that is not too hot, so the seeds do not burn and turn the dish bitter.

Fry the radish first, then the potatoes, a few minutes each on medium-high heat, adding vegetables from hardest to quickest-cooking.

Lower the heat, add turmeric powder to the oil, then raise to medium-high.

Add the cauliflower and sweet potatoes, then the butternut squash; cover on medium heat about 5 minutes.

Add the tindora and carrots; cover and cook 6 to 8 minutes on medium heat.

Make a spice paste of ground cumin, optional red chilli powder, grated ginger and 4 tablespoons water.

Grind the cooled toasted spices to a coarse powder in a spice grinder.

Add the zucchini and green beans, then salt and the spice paste; cover on medium heat a few minutes.

Add fresh red chilies, then the eggplant, covering and uncovering often; add half a cup of water if it looks dry.

Cook until the vegetables are very soft and mushy; taste and add more salt.

Add Bengali garam masala powder and the tomatoes.

When all the vegetables are soft, add the toasted spice powder and ghee; cover 2 minutes.

Finish with a sprinkle of sugar; serve with khichuri.