Lahmacun (spiced lamb topped flatbreads)

In a stand mixer with the dough hook, mix 375 ml room-temperature milk with 1.5 tsp instant yeast for a few seconds.

Add 500 g flour and 1.5 tsp salt; mix on slow until the milk is absorbed, then on medium-high.

Knead 5 to 8 minutes, until the dough pulls from the bowl and is still sticky but holds its shape and is springy.

Work in 6 tbsp vegetable oil a tablespoon at a time, by hand if the mixer struggles; the oil goes in after kneading because it inhibits gluten formation.

Fold into a ball with a spatula, put into an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a towel and rest at least half an hour, until doubled.

Prepare half a brown onion in quarters, 3 large peeled garlic cloves, half a green pepper, half a red pepper, a green chilli and 2 plum tomatoes in large pieces.

In a food processor or blender, add the vegetables, 1 tsp salt, a washed bunch of parsley, 1 tbsp Aleppo pepper flakes, 1 tbsp vegetable oil, 50 g tomato puree and 75 g Turkish red pepper paste; process to a full paste, scraping down. Taste: it should be slightly over salted.

Add 375 g minced lamb (about 80/20) and mix until evenly combined; turn into a bowl, give a final mix and set aside.

Slice a small red onion as thin as possible, mix with half a teaspoon of salt, then a teaspoon of sumac; cure 15 to 30 minutes.

Knock back the risen dough, shape into a ball on a floured surface, halve it and cut each half into four equal pieces; roll each into a smooth ball.

Roll each floured ball as thin as possible to the size of the pan, rolling from the middle away and then from the middle back, turning 90 degrees between passes.

Transfer to a pizza peel or a plate lined with greaseproof paper; spread a few heaped tablespoons of topping in a thin even layer right to the edges.

Heat an oven-safe nonstick pan over medium; fold the lahmacun in half to transfer it, unfold flat and patch any bald spots.

Cook on the stove 2 to 3 minutes until the top steams and bubbles and the underside browns a little.

Move under a preheated grill or into the oven about 3 to 4 minutes, until browned and the topping looks dry and cooked; return to the stove to finish the bottom. Stack as they are done.

Rest about 10 minutes so the bread softens enough to roll.

Serve with chopped salad vegetables and cacik; top with plenty of fresh parsley, the sumac onions and about half a lemon's juice, and roll into a wrap.