Laminated yeasted cheddar biscuits

Combine the flour, sugar, kosher salt and instant yeast.

Add the cut up butter and smash it in with the fingertips until the largest pieces are lentil sized or smaller; it has a tenderizing effect on the dough.

Grate the cheddar in on the large holes of a box grater and toss it through.

Make a well, add room temperature buttermilk and bring the dough together with a spatula or bowl scraper until all the buttermilk is absorbed and it is shaggy.

Turn out and work it on the surface, folding and kneading, only until the flour is evenly hydrated - not to develop gluten.

Form into a ball, return to the mixing bowl, cover and rise at room temperature until 50 to 100 percent expanded.

Work the room temperature butter with the onion powder, cayenne, dried dill, garlic, salt and pepper with a flexible spatula until evenly mixed.

Turn the risen dough out onto a floured surface and flatten it with fingertips and the heel of the hand into a square or rectangle, tugging out the corners.

Roll out to about three eighths of an inch - between a quarter and a half inch.

Dollop the seasoned butter over the bottom two thirds of the dough, right to the edges, and smooth it into an even layer with the offset spatula.

Fold the naked upper third down over the middle third, then fold the bottom third up over that - a letter fold - giving dough, butter, dough, butter, dough.

Rotate the book 90 degrees so the seam is to the right, roll out again and repeat the letter fold.

Wrap and freeze about 10 minutes, then refrigerate about 30 minutes so the gluten relaxes and the yeast slows.

Roll out and do a final letter fold, widening the slab so the folded piece is the right size to cut inch and a half to two inch squares, and no more than an inch and a quarter thick.

Wrap in plastic and refrigerate a minimum of six hours and up to sixteen; overnight improves flavour and texture.

Cut into 12 squares - thirds on the short side, quarters on the long - trimming a little along the edges for clean lines.

Space the biscuits on a parchment lined sheet tray, cover and proof until slightly domed and the layers have separated a little; about an hour and a half at around 70F in a coolish spot, so the butter does not soften or melt.

Brush the tops with melted butter.

Bake at 400F on the centre rack for 15 to 20 minutes, rotating the pan at about 10 minutes, until super puffy and golden brown top and bottom.

Move off the hot baking sheet onto a rack and let them settle and cool until warm but not hot.