Lasagna, parboiled against raw noodles

Sauce: fry onions, brown tomato paste a little in the pan, add crushed tomatoes, a little wine and herbs and spices; simmer at least an hour.

Cheese layer: mix grated mozzarella into ricotta with grated Parmesan, eggs, pepper and salt.

Parboiled version: boil dry noodles in salted water just until pliable, about half to two thirds of the package time; shock in ice water, lay out on a towel and dry the tops with another towel; trim to fit the pan if wanted.

Variation: fry the trimmings in a pan with butter and fresh herbs, top with cheese.

Start with a little sauce in the pan, then one cup of sauce or cheese per layer, four layers; top with reserved mozzarella and cover with foil.

Raw-noodle version: break dry noodles to fit by bending each over a finger behind the break line; over-season the other layers slightly since the noodles are not salted by boiling; seal with foil.

Raw-with-extra-water version: pour about 144 g water, a little more to allow for evaporation, in small doses over each pasta layer.

Bake at 400F (200C) covered about 40 minutes; uncover, add a second dose of mozzarella, bake 10 minutes more, then broil to brown the cheese.

Make a day ahead and reheat 20 minutes in the oven.

Fresh egg pasta: whisk eggs, a glug of olive oil and flour, then knead in as much flour as it will take until smooth, elastic and only slightly sticky; cover and rest in the fridge.

Roll to the second thinnest setting and trim to the pan.

Boil the twelve fresh noodles until visibly puffed and lighter in colour; cool in ice water, separate and dry on a towel; build and bake as before, the raw-with-extra-water version getting salted water this time.

For a clean cut, chill the lasagna overnight; reheat covered about 15 minutes, uncover, add a little more cheese and broil until brown.