Leek and potato soup with salami

Cut the hard salami into big chunks and put them in a cold, dry soup pot; as it heats, the fat renders out and the salami browns in it.

Cut the roots off the leeks, bisect lengthwise, then slice crosswise into little strips, using the green parts up to the dry fibrous tops.

Swish the cut leeks in a big bowl of water to knock off dirt and sand, fill the bowl with excess water, then lift the leeks out and into the pot on top of the browned salami, leaving the sand behind.

Stir and soften the leeks, letting them brown a little.

Peel waxy potatoes, cut like french fries and then across into chunks; add to the leeks and cook dry for a few minutes to give them a head start.

Pour in chicken stock to barely cover the solids, bring to a spirited simmer and cover so the liquid does not evaporate and burn.

Simmer 20 or 30 minutes until the potatoes are fork tender.

Add the cream toward the end and bring it to a gentle simmer for a few minutes until the broth thickens a little; too hot and it curdles and the fat separates. Turn the heat off.

Partially puree with an immersion blender, keeping plenty of intact chunks.

Season with a pinch of salt, stir and taste.

Snip in fresh rosemary with scissors, add picked thyme leaves, and stir in.