Lemon pepper potatoes

Cut a little off two sides of each russet so it sits flat, then cut straight down the middle into two even, narrow halves; leave unpeeled.

Swish in a bowl of cold water to wash off starch for a crustier surface; blot dry on paper towels.

Season the wide cut side very generously with black pepper, cayenne and kosher salt.

Pour about a quarter cup of olive oil into a baking dish, add the potatoes seasoned side down, brush the tops with more oil and season them the same way.

Roast in the center of a 400F oven for 20 minutes; flip carefully with a spatula and tongs.

Let sit about 10 minutes while mixing the braising liquid: a cup of chicken broth, grated lemon zest and the juice of one or two lemons.

Pour over the potatoes, keeping the zest under the liquid rather than on top; poke in a few oregano sprigs and add more black pepper.

Return to the 400F oven about 15 minutes, then flip again carefully, turning away from you.

Bake until the insides are very soft and creamy, the outsides crusty and caramelized, and all the liquid is absorbed; a knife should go in like butter.

Turn the larger side up, arrange on a platter, drizzle with olive oil and finish with black pepper and fresh oregano.