Lemon scones with lemon glaze

Set the oven to 400 degrees.

In a large bowl put 67 g granulated sugar, zest two lemons over it with a microplane, and rub with clean hands until the sugar is pale yellow and like wet sand.

Add 240 g all-purpose flour (weighed, or sprinkled into a cup and leveled, never scooped), 2 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/8 tsp baking soda; whisk.

Cube 113 g cold butter into the bowl and work it in by hand or with a pastry cutter until no piece is bigger than a pea; do not work it to sand.

In a medium bowl whisk 120 ml cold buttermilk, one large egg and 1 tsp vanilla.

Make a well, pour the wet into the dry and fold gently with a spatula just until shaggy, wet and messy.

Turn out onto a lightly floured counter and fold or knead once or twice; lift with a bench scraper and pat into a circle of about seven and a half inches, not too thin.

Cut into eight wedges with a floured bench scraper or knife and set about two inches apart on a lined, rimmed baking sheet without pressing the cut edges.

Brush the tops only with buttermilk. They may be refrigerated a few hours, or frozen flat up to three months and baked from frozen with a few extra minutes.

Bake at 400 degrees 20 to 25 minutes until puffed and golden, rotating the pan halfway.

Whisk 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice, 1/2 cup powdered sugar and a pinch of salt to a drizzling consistency, adding sugar if runny or juice if thick.

Baked 20 minutes gives deep golden; 16 minutes light golden with a browned bottom. Set the scones close together and drizzle with the glaze.