Leng sap (braised pork spine in spicy lime-garlic broth)

Drop the pork neck bones into water.

Season with fish sauce and soy sauce and simmer about 30 minutes, skimming off the scum.

Add onions, garlic and crushed white peppercorns and cook about another hour and a half, about two hours in all, until the meat is fork tender but not falling off the bone.

Check tenderness with a fork at the thickest part of the meat.

Turn off the heat and skim out the onions.

Take about two cups of the base stock into a separate pot and bring back to a boil; keep the rest for noodles or freeze it.

Pound red and green chilies in a mortar until just broken up (or chop them).

Turn off the boiling broth and immediately add lots of chopped garlic so it softens and infuses without cooking.

Add the chilies, a little sugar and fish sauce to taste, then plenty of lime juice; the broth should be sour and spicy.

When the broth has cooled a little, add lots of cilantro; taste and adjust the fish sauce.

Pile the bones into a mountain and drizzle the broth over the top; serve with rice.