Light and fluffy mashed potatoes

Peel the russet potatoes and cut into one- to two-inch dice.

Rinse a couple of times until the water no longer runs cloudy with starch.

Put in a pot of cold salted water, bring to a boil, then turn down to a bare simmer and cook just until cooked through, about 15 minutes; a cake tester should pass through without resistance.

Drain; set the pan back over low heat to dry. Rinse the potatoes once more with hot water.

Return the potatoes to the hot pot, shake, and let sit about 30 seconds to evaporate surface moisture.

Combine melted butter and whole milk.

Pass the potatoes through a ricer (or food mill) back into the pot.

Pile into a mound, pour the milk and butter around the outside, season with black pepper and salt.

Gently fold the milk mixture in with a rubber spatula, lifting and scraping so nothing burns; taste and add the rest of the milk and butter.

Serve with a pat of butter on top; chives or sliced scallions optional.