Light chicken curry with potatoes (her mother's recipe)

Heat the oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking; add the bay leaf, then the thinly sliced onions with a quarter teaspoon of salt.

Stir frequently on medium-high until the onions wilt and turn pale with a touch of golden brown at the edges.

Puree the tomatoes in a blender.

Add the grated ginger and garlic and stir on medium heat for a minute.

Add the chicken and stir on medium-high until it turns from pink to cream, then on high until all the water released from the chicken dries up, frying it so it does not boil in its own juices.

Add the pureed tomatoes and fry with the chicken until less liquid.

Add the turmeric, Kashmiri chilli powder, salt and sugar; stir on medium-high until most of the liquid evaporates.

Add the potatoes, then the black pepper and garam masala.

Add two cups hot water, cover and simmer on low 30 minutes, stirring now and then; add a quarter cup more hot water if the gravy thickens.

At about 35 minutes check the potatoes, taste and adjust seasoning, and cook five minutes more.

Discard the bay leaf and add chopped cilantro if liked.