Linguine alle vongole

Put the clams in water with rock or sea salt (never fine salt) to purge any sand; fresh clams from a supplier rest about four hours, pre-cleaned ones need only a quick rinse.

Cut off the parsley stalks and chop them finely; keep the leaves for finishing.

Heat a stainless steel pan on high, add 4 to 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, crush in the garlic and add half the parsley stalks.

Add a tablespoon of water to stop the garlic burning; stir over medium-high heat about one minute.

Add the clams and stir; pour in the white wine and cover to keep the steam in.

Start the linguine in a large pot of boiling water salted with a tablespoon of rock salt; press it down. Take it out 3 minutes before the packet time.

Once the clams have opened and the alcohol has nearly evaporated (a couple of minutes), remove about 80% of the clams from their shells, keeping 20% in the shell.

After 6 minutes move the pasta into the pan with half a mug of pasta water.

Cook the pasta in the pan the last 3 minutes, stirring constantly and adding the parsley; in the final minute stop stirring and toss the pan (spadellare, mantecare) until the liquid turns creamy.

Serve with clams spread through the pasta and a clam in the shell to decorate. Chili is optional; no cheese.