Linguine alle vongole with pancetta and sea beans

Slowly render the pancetta in olive oil until crisp; without pancetta, use all olive oil and skip the render.

Cook about 200 g linguine in lightly salted water.

Smash five garlic cloves hard, peel and roughly mince.

Add the garlic to the pancetta and saute very lightly, without colour, until aromatic.

Add the white wine and bring to a boil; add the clams.

Time the pasta to be just shy of al dente as the clams finish, turning it off if it gets ahead; the clams take a minute or two.

Add a little lemon zest.

When the clams start to open, move to the big burner and help the long-open ones open so they do not overcook.

Check the pasta and transfer it into the clam pan; it barely softens further in the acidic liquid.

Add the sea beans, a big handful of parsley and fresh olive oil; toss until the sauce comes together, and add a little chili flake.

Plate; the sauce can stay a little brothy and thickens as it cools.