Loaded cornbread

Melt five tablespoons of butter in the skillet over medium-low and crisp the chopped bacon in it.

Slice four scallions thinly crosswise and finely chop the Fresno chili.

Add the corn to the crisped bacon, then the scallions and Fresno, and cook until the scallions are translucent and soft and the corn kernels soften. Cool off the heat.

Finely chop the cilantro.

Whisk the dry: a cup of all purpose flour, half a cup cornmeal, one and a half teaspoons baking powder, one and a half teaspoons kosher salt, a quarter teaspoon each of cayenne and baking soda, and freshly ground black pepper.

Whisk two eggs until streak free, then whisk in a cup of sour cream, half a cup buttermilk and two tablespoons granulated sugar; stir in the cilantro.

Preheat the oven to 425F, hot enough to get good browning on the surfaces.

Put the clean skillet back over medium high with the remaining two tablespoons of butter and swirl to coat.

Pour the wet into a well in the dry and whisk from the centre outward; once incorporated switch to a spatula, fold once or twice, then fold in the aromatics without overmixing.

Pour the batter into the hot skillet and smooth it into a single even layer.

Bake until the surface is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Cool a few minutes, cut around the edge, then invert onto a wire rack. Serve upside down, or slid back into the skillet, cut into squares or wedges.