Lobster mac and cheese

Split the lobster tails in half with a sharp knife and pull out the digestive tract.

Sear in a skillet over high heat with a little vegetable oil, about two minutes per side, to colour them but only cook them 40 to 50% through; turn off the heat and rest on a plate.

Melt a couple tablespoons of butter in the hot pan, return to medium heat and stir in flour; cook a minute or two to make a roux, which also deglazes the lobster bits.

Whisk in about 1 1/2 cups cold milk and cook on medium until it simmers and thickens; turn to low and add a shake of cayenne, a little paprika and freshly grated nutmeg. Hold on the lowest heat 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Pull the lobster meat from the shells; add the shells to a pot of generously salted water and bring to a boil.

Add a pinch of salt and a lot of shredded cheese, four parts cheddar to one part Gruyere; once nearly melted, turn off the heat -- a cheese sauce should never simmer. Stir in exactly three drops of Worcestershire sauce.

Cook the macaroni in the lobster-shell water to just about eating doneness; remove the shells (keep them for garnish) and transfer the pasta with a strainer into the sauce with a little of its water. Keep it very saucy.

Stir in a few fresh thyme leaves and taste for salt.

Divide between two buttered gratin dishes; top with the lobster meat cut in chunks and poke it in with a fork.

Mix a little melted butter with panko and a little grated Parmesan; cover the tops and poke it down with a fork.

Bake in the centre of a 400 degree oven 15 to 20 minutes until browned; rest about 5 minutes.

Garnish with the reserved lobster shells and a little fresh chive.