Lobster roll

Finely chop the inner celery stalks; start with about a third of a cup.

Pick the tarragon leaves and finely chop about a tablespoon with a really sharp knife.

Cut dry chives in half, line up the cut ends and slice with long clean strokes so the hollow chives are not crushed; add a couple of tablespoons.

Add a little cayenne from the knife point, celery salt and cracked black pepper.

Add just enough mayo to coat and bind, about a quarter cup, and about a tablespoon of Dijon; mix gently.

Taste and adjust: add the rest of the celery, a squeeze of lemon and a little salt. Set aside or refrigerate.

Heat a large skillet over medium with a couple of tablespoons of butter; add the split-top buns and toast until golden brown, shaking so they absorb the butter and rotating so they cook evenly.

Add a little more butter, flip and toast the second side the same way; turn off the heat.

Move the warm buns to a cutting board, open them and divide the lobster mixture evenly among them; finish with a little lemon.