Macaroni and cheese (Anthony Bourdain)

Cook one pound of elbow macaroni in salted boiling water until al dente, eight minutes, then drain without rinsing and set aside.

Grate four ounces Gruyere and five ounces sharp cheddar, grate eight ounces Parmesan Reggiano by hand and cube five ounces fresh mozzarella.

Julienne four ounces of ham, cut about an inch long and thin.

Melt five tablespoons of butter in the still hot macaroni pot over medium high heat until it foams and the foam subsides.

Whisk in five tablespoons of flour, then switch to a wooden spoon and keep stirring about two minutes until it is a golden nutty colour.

Add four and a half cups of whole milk and bring to a boil, alternating a wooden spoon and a whisk so nothing sticks to the base, then reduce to a simmer until slightly thicker than heavy cream.

Add two teaspoons mustard powder, two teaspoons cayenne pepper and one teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and whisk together.

Whisk in half the Parmesan, saving the rest for the top, then add the cheddar, Gruyere and the mozzarella cubes and the optional julienned ham, stirring on a simmer until all the cheese melts.

Add salt, then the cooked macaroni, and mix well with a wooden spoon.

Add two teaspoons of salt and optional ground white pepper.

Pour into a greased rectangular dish and sprinkle on the remaining Parmesan.

Bake at 375F for 15 to 20 minutes until the top is golden brown and the mixture is slightly bubbling - 20 minutes here.