Macaroni and cheese with reduced cream

Bring water to a boil in the Dutch oven with a generous pinch of kosher salt; no oil.

Cook the pasta about eight and a half minutes, slightly under the package time, stirring every couple of minutes; drain, keeping some pasta water.

Add the heavy cream to the pot over low heat and stir with a wooden spoon until reduced by half, using the cream line on the spoon as the gauge; it turns slightly yellow.

While it reduces, season lightly with salt and pepper and add chopped rosemary.

Shred the Gruyere, cheddar and Parmesan, about 8 oz of cheese per pound of pasta, and melt into the reduced cream until smooth.

Add the pasta and enough pasta water to bring the sauce together.

Dust the top with Parmesan on a microplane and scatter chives.