Macaroni gratin (Thomas Keller)

Cook eight ounces of elbow macaroni in heavily salted boiling water until tender - the box said 10 minutes, eight were used.

Drain the macaroni, rinse it under cold water and drain it on paper towel.

Chop a cup of wild mushrooms into a nice dice and saute them in butter seven or eight minutes until browned and all the juices have cooked out, seasoning with salt and pepper.

Grate a cup of Emmental cheese, around eight ounces.

Melt four tablespoons of butter in a sauce pan over medium high heat, set over a cast iron skillet as a heat diffuser.

Add two third cup of diced Spanish onion and a pinch of salt and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until translucent.

Sprinkle in a quarter cup of flour.

Whisk in two and two-third cups of milk and one-third cup of heavy cream and bring to a simmer.

Add four peppercorns, four cloves and a bay leaf, move the pan off direct heat and bring back to a gentle simmer.

Cook, whisking occasionally and reaching into the corners of the pan, for about 30 minutes.

Strain the sauce, season to taste with salt, a grating of nutmeg and a pinch of freshly ground white pepper.

Whisk in about half a cup of the cheese until melted, then add the dried macaroni and the sauteed mushrooms; the mixture may look loose.

Pour into a lightly greased baking dish.

Sprinkle over two to three teaspoons of fresh thyme leaves, half a cup of grated Emmental and two to three tablespoons of Panko breadcrumbs.

Bake at 375F on the top third rack for 15 to 20 minutes until hot and bubbling around the edges, then finish under the broiler to brown the top.