Macau pork chop bun

Mix the bread flour and water into a rough shaggy dough, cover and rest 40 minutes.

Stretch the dough into a log, add the sugar, salt and yeast, fold to incorporate, then knead about five minutes by smearing the dough against the work surface and rolling it up.

Add the lard and work it in the same way, two to three minutes.

Knead by slapping, a Guangdong bakery technique: lift the dough to shoulder height, slap it on the surface, fold the edge over, rotate 90 degrees and repeat, about 300 slaps, until you can see the outline of your fingers through it.

Form into a ball and ferment one hour, giving it three or four folds halfway through to develop the gluten further.

Dust the dough and surface, portion into three even pieces, fold each into a ball by folding the edge in and over, pinch closed and seal by twisting against the surface. Rest on a tray 15 minutes.

Shape smooth side down: slap the ball to lengthen it, press flat, fold in halfway from the long edge and press, fold and press again, then roll seam side down into a rough cigar with cupped hands, pinch the seam and set on the baking tray seam side down.

Cover and proof 45 minutes, until the dough bounces back slowly when pressed. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 220 Celsius with a tray of water in it for steam and crust.

Score each bun lengthwise with a razor and bake at 220 Celsius for 14 minutes, removing the water tray with five minutes left so the buns brown.

Cool on a cooling rack.

Pound the pork chop thin with a mallet, or Cantonese style with the back of a knife, turning 45 degrees and pounding again before slapping it thin; it tenderizes as well as the hammer though less evenly.

Toast the cumin seeds, coriander seeds and white pepper.

Pound the toasted spices in a mortar with the salt and baking soda, then mix in the slab sugar and chicken bouillon powder.

Massage the spice mix into the pork chops, then add the sliced onion, smashed garlic and dried bay leaves and massage again.

Add three quarters of a cup of white wine, Shaoxing wine or watered down brandy, cover and marinate in the fridge at least eight hours.

Take the chops out, remove any obvious solids and stretch them out a touch.

Bring a pot of oil to 160 centigrade and fry over a medium high flame; the chop drops the temperature, which is fine since the target is around 140 centigrade. Fry about two minutes, flipping halfway, until done. Shallow frying or pan frying also work.

Slice the buns in half and pan-toast them in a generous quantity of butter about five minutes.

Optionally add another small slab of butter, then lay the fried pork chop on top.

Variation, condensed milk toast: toast the same bun with butter in a pan, sprinkle over sugar and drizzle on as much condensed milk as you like, and eat it on its own.