Magic souffle

Bring the heavy cream to a boil and pour it over the finely chopped dark chocolate; whisk smooth.

Cool the ganache to 122F, whisk in the softened butter, press plastic wrap onto the surface and refrigerate two hours.

Mix the bread flour, salt and sugar, add the instant yeast and four eggs, and mix with the dough hook on low until it forms a ball.

Drizzle in a tablespoon of milk on low, then mix six to eight minutes to develop the gluten until the dough clears the sides of the bowl.

Add 13 tablespoons of cold diced butter and mix on medium high until incorporated.

Mix in the grated orange rind, the orange blossom water and the orange oil until smooth, shiny and sticky.

Put the dough in a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and proof at room temperature an hour and a half, until doubled.

Melt the cold butter with the finely chopped dark chocolate in the microwave in 20 second intervals, stirring between each.

With the whisk attachment on low, combine the sugar, all purpose flour, baking powder and three eggs for a couple of minutes.

Stream in the chocolate butter on low, scraping the bowl, then beat on high for three minutes.

Press plastic wrap onto the surface and chill one hour.

Fold the edges of the risen brioche dough into the centre to punch it down, press plastic wrap against it and refrigerate overnight to relax the gluten.

Load the chilled souffle batter into a cream siphon charged with a nitrous oxide cartridge, shake five times and dispense.

The batter was too thick to dispense; chilling it a full hour firms it too much. Warming it, then leaving it at room temperature, then microwaving it a few seconds and finally adding already-whipped cream loosened it enough to come through.

Fill each sprayed mould halfway with the souffle batter on a parchment-lined sheet pan, tap out the air bubbles, add a dollop of chocolate ganache and cover with more batter to the top.

Bake at 375F four minutes, rotate the pan and bake four minutes more.

Leave the baked souffles in their moulds and freeze overnight; they sink and compress as they cool.

Roll one third of the brioche dough into a 20 by 10 inch rectangle about an eighth of an inch or three millimetres thick, move it to a parchment-lined pan and chill to relax the gluten.

Cut the dough into strips with a chef knife, run a thin knife around each mould to release the frozen souffle, and wrap a strip tightly around each one, off-centre so the crease is not in the middle. Pinch, trim the excess and seal.

Put each brioche-wrapped souffle into a sprayed mould, cover with plastic wrap and proof at room temperature two hours until the dough reaches the top of the mould.

Freeze one hour, then lay parchment and a second pan on top so they stay compressed while baking.

Bake at 375F five minutes, rotate the pan and bake five minutes more, until golden brown, and unmould immediately.

His came out molten in the middle rather than set; a further five to six minutes in the oven browned the crust and crisped the outside but did not change the filling.