Mapo tofu

Toast the cut dried chilies and the Sichuan peppercorns in the wok over low heat a couple of minutes without burning them, or they turn bitter.

Cool slightly, then grind finely in a blender. This is the daokou lajiao.

Add the Sichuan doubanjiang and the fermented black soy bean to the same blender cup.

Add the Chinese cooking wine and blend to a grain; set aside.

Bring 1.5 litres of water to a boil, add the salt, slide in the tofu and simmer a couple of minutes, then lift it out and set aside.

Heat the wok until smoking hot, add cooking oil and swirl to coat.

Add the ground beef and break it into small loose pieces so they cling to the tofu.

Once the meat has changed colour, push it to the side and sauté the doubanjiang paste in the oil the beef has given up.

When the paste smells fragrant, add the minced garlic, minced ginger, scallion whites, paprika and sugar, and half the daokou lajiao, reserving the rest.

Stir a couple of minutes, then pour in the beef stock, rinsing the blender cup out into the wok.

Bring to a boil on high and taste; it should be saltier than usual because the tofu carries little flavour and it is eaten with rice.

Add the tofu, drop to low and simmer five minutes.

Mix the cornstarch with a quarter cup of water and add it in three batches.

Stir by pushing with the back of the spatula, never pulling, so the tofu stays whole.

Sprinkle the reserved daokou lajiao and the diced scallions over as garnish.