Marinated courgette salad with lemon, coriander seed and a gastrique

Put cold water with a tablespoon of salt in a pan, lid on, and bring it to the boil while the mise en place is done.

Zest the whole lemon on a very fine grating plate, then squeeze the juice and filter the pulp out.

Crush the coriander seeds slightly with a spoon to release the flavour.

Wash the courgettes and slice them very thin, skin on, on a mandolin or with a knife.

Blanch the slices in the boiling water, two minutes maximum; the water will stop boiling when they go in and that does not matter. Thin slices may want only one minute.

Drain. Do not refresh under cold water. Pat dry flat on a tea towel.

While the slices are still hot, lay them flat on the serving dish, overlapping from the outside in like fish scales.

Sprinkle the crushed coriander seeds over, then the grated lemon zest, then fine salt and a little pepper.

Spread the lemon juice over by hand so every slice gets some, rather than pouring it in one place.

Into the fridge while the gastrique is made.

Put 30 g of sugar and one tablespoon of water in a saucepan on medium to high heat.

As soon as it takes a little colour -- not a true dark caramel -- add the vinegar; cook a minute more to melt the rest of the sugar, then turn the heat off.

Pour the gastrique over the courgettes while it is hot, so it does not solidify like a caramel. Add a little more lemon juice if there is not enough.

Into the fridge at least two hours, two to three hours marinating; it has to be served fridge-cold.

Leftovers keep in a sealed container up to 48 hours and improve with waiting. Serve as a side with cold meats, fish or lettuce, not as a starter on its own.