Masala chicken curry

Mix the yogurt with turmeric, Kashmiri chilli powder, ground coriander, black pepper and water until smooth. Bring the yogurt to room temperature 30 minutes before it goes in, or the temperature shock splits it.

Heat the oil in a pot over medium heat; add the bay leaf, the bit of cinnamon stick and the green cardamoms.

Add the onions to hot but not smoking oil with the eighth teaspoon of salt and stir frequently, browning gradually to a light golden brown at the edges to bring out their sweetness.

Add the ginger garlic paste and stir on medium heat about a minute.

Add the chicken and fry with the onions on medium-high; with bone-in chicken, fry until all the released water dries up.

When everything looks dry, add the ghee. Turn the heat to its lowest or off, add the yogurt and stir at once; return to medium-low and keep stirring until it bubbles.

Add the salt and sugar. Cover on medium-low for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time so the masala does not settle and burn; add hot water if it dries out.

Taste and adjust the seasoning; add the kasuri methi.

Add the heavy cream, chopped coriander leaves, sweet paprika, garam masala and the green chillies if using.

Cover on medium-low for 10 more minutes; finish with more coriander leaves. Serve with naan, paratha or plain white rice.