Mashed potatoes

Peel and chop the russets one at a time straight into pre-watered, salted cold water, since their high starch oxidises and browns quickly.

Bring up from cold water to a simmer so the potatoes heat and cook evenly and do not go lumpy, and cook 15 to 20 minutes until a paring knife twisted in a chunk cracks it effortlessly in half.

Drain and press through a potato ricer, which mashes evenly and ruptures fewer starch cells than a masher, keeping the potatoes light rather than gluey.

Variation, rustic mashed fingerlings: cut into evenly sized one-inch chunks, bring to a boil in heavily salted cool water, cook 15 to 20 minutes until completely tender, drain and use a potato masher.

Variation, whipped potatoes: use the lowest starch potato, Yukon Gold, cut into one inch chunks, cover with cold water, salt generously, cook 15 minutes until tender, drain and rice.

Add melted butter and cold milk to prevent curdling: a quarter cup of milk and two tablespoons of butter per pound for light fluffy russets, double that for smooth creamy Yukon Golds, or swap heavy cream for the milk.

Variation, Pomme Aligot: work eight ounces of heavy cream and four ounces of butter into two pounds of riced Yukon Golds, then add about twelve ounces of firm aged Swiss cheese slowly in batches and whip with a full-sized whisk until stretchy, between mashed potato and fondue.

Season any mashed potato with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

Variation, loaded: start from the russet, butter and heavy cream mash and add crispy bacon, minced chives, optional cayenne, scallions, ranch seasoning, grated cheddar and black pepper.

Variation, loaded: whisk a few shakes of ranch seasoning into half a stick of unsalted butter and dollop the compound butter on top, then add more cheese, bacon, scallions and chives.