Mashed potatoes (russet, fingerling and Yukon Gold methods with milk and butter ratios)

Peel and chop russets one at a time, dropping each straight into cold water so it does not brown.

Salt the water and bring to a simmer; cook 15 to 20 minutes until a paring knife twisted in a chunk cracks it in half.

Drain, then pass through a potato ricer to mash evenly without lumps and without rupturing starch cells.

Variation, rustic: cut fingerlings into even 1-inch chunks, bring to a boil in heavily salted cool water, cook 15 to 20 minutes until tender, drain and mash with a potato masher, skins on.

Variation, Yukon Gold: cut into even 1-inch chunks, cover with cold water, salt like the ocean, cook 15 minutes or until tender, drain and rice.

Mix in melted butter and cold milk: about a quarter cup milk and 2 tbsp unsalted butter per pound for russets; double for Yukon Golds, heavy cream in place of milk if wanted.

Season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.