Melon pan

Microwave the milk to about 115F, hotter than a hot shower to the touch.

Stir in half a tablespoon of sugar and the yeast and set aside until foamy, about 10 minutes.

In a large bowl combine the flour, whisked egg and the other half tablespoon of sugar; pour over the yeast mixture and mix until a shaggy dough forms.

Knead by hand, pushing left then right, sprinkling in bench flour as necessary, without overworking.

Once the dough looks good, press in the room-temperature butter cubes one at a time while kneading, about 10 minutes in all, until smooth, shiny and sticky.

Roll into a ball with the acorn rolling technique rather than stretching the dough underneath.

Place in an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and proof about 1 hour.

For the cookie topping, whisk the butter and sugar until a little aerated; add the egg in two additions so it incorporates without going lumpy.

Sift in the all-purpose flour and almond flour and mix to a cookie dough paste.

Press between plastic wrap into a rectangle and roll with a rolling pin to an even layer about a quarter inch thick; chill on a tray in the fridge to harden.

Punch the dough down and divide it in half.

Shape into small smooth balls (four normal buns from one half, one large bun from the other), coaxing rather than overworking or stretching the gluten.

Divide the cookie dough and press a patch over the top of each bun, using parchment paper to press it down and then peeling it off.

Invert each bun into a plate of turbinado sugar to press sugar onto the topping.

Score a pattern into the topping with a knife without cutting into the dough; a diamond pattern by rolling the knife from blade to tip.

Proof on a tray another 45 minutes to an hour, until grown about 25 to 30 percent.

Bake at 350F until slightly golden: about 15 minutes for the small buns, 20 to 25 for the large one.

Variation: leave the large bun on convection bake about 5 minutes longer for an extra crispy topping.