Meyer lemon meringue pie

Mix the flour, salt and cold cubed butter on low speed until the butter pieces are about the size of blueberries, halfway between mealy and flaky.

With the mixer on low, slowly pour in ice water until the dough is shaggy, like wet sand, with a few patches of dry flour left.

Tip out and press into a mound with cold hands; do not add more water.

Cut the double batch in half into two discs, wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

Generously flour the table and rolling pin, press the cold dough to start, then roll with a quarter turn after every roll to a quarter inch thick and about one inch wider than the pie plate.

Roll the dough up onto the pin and unroll it over the pie plate, or lay it in with the back of the hands; tuck the excess under or cut it off.

Refrigerate the shells uncovered another 30 minutes.

Optionally roll two long strips, twist them together, and stick them on the rim with egg white; or press the edge with a spoon instead of crimping. Chill about five more minutes.

Blind bake: line with crumpled parchment and fill with rice or beans to stop the crust bubbling up.

After about 30 minutes the sides are dry and the bottom still wet; stop here for a par-bake, or remove the weights and keep baking until deep golden brown and crispy all the way through, 55 minutes in total.

Cool the shells to about room temperature.

Stir the eight egg yolks in a bowl.

In a saucepan mix the cornstarch, sugar and salt, then stir in the water and lemon juice and heat.

Temper the yolks by adding the hot mixture a little at a time, about a tablespoon at a time, then return everything to the pot.

Heat, stirring, until the cornstarch activates and the curd visibly thickens and bubbles, then about one more minute.

Off the heat, add the butter all at once and the zest.

Test a little in the fridge to check it will set.

Pour the filling into the baked shell and cover the surface so it does not form a skin (the covering is not named).

Cool at room temperature 30 to 45 minutes, then refrigerate an hour or two.

Whip pasteurized egg whites with the smallest pinch of cream of tartar until frothy, then slowly pour in the sugar and whip to stiff peaks.

Pile the meringue on and swirl it into peaks.

Lightly torch the meringue; the peaks brown, the smooth parts less.