Miso buttermilk biscuits

Work cold buttermilk into the miso a few tablespoons at a time to prevent lumps; after a third to half is in, add the rest and stir. Return to the measuring cup and refrigerate.

Whisk the all-purpose flour with the baking powder, baking soda and sugar; no salt.

Add the cold cubed butter, separate and coat the pieces in flour, then smash them flat with your fingers, working quickly, until the largest pieces are about the size of a pea.

Make a well, pour in the miso buttermilk, work it in with a fork, then fold with a flexible spatula until no dry flour remains.

Turn out onto a floured surface and pat into an even square.

Cut into four quadrants with a bench scraper and stack them one on top of another, tucking loose dry bits between the layers; pat down.

Roll out with a rolling pin, keeping the sides straight, to a square about eight by eight inches.

Shave the thinnest layer from each side to straighten the edges and expose the butter layers. Cut into 16 in a four by four grid.

Transfer to a plate and freeze so the butter is cold when it hits the oven. Preheat the oven to 425F.

Set all 16 on one baking sheet, brush the tops with melted butter and crack over a little pepper.

Bake about 20 to 25 minutes, turning the oven down to 375F.

Done at 20 minutes by smell. Butter pooling on the sheet means the dough did not rest long enough. Cool and serve warm.

To store, freeze unbaked biscuits solid on the plate, pack into a bag and bake from frozen, a minute or two longer.